Living in a hallway: Conqureing the Nullabor

10/04/2024 - Ceduna

We left Kimba and headed to Ceduna, stopping at Wudinna to look at the Great Australian Farmer Monument. The granite sculpture is 8 meters high and is a representation of a farmer. While it takes a basic human form, the top represents the sun, while in the body are carved grain crops. Sheep are placed at the foot of the statue, representing the sheep farmers in the district as well as creating the feet of the figure when viewed from a distance.

We then stretched our legs again at the small township of Wirrulla.

Old Bank building.

Wirrulla Memorial Hall

We arrived in Ceduna and camped at the Ceduna Airport Caravan Park the only one that had a vacancy all the other caravan parks are booked out.

We finished off the day with a short walk around the township and a meal at the pub.

Ceduna Pier

11/04/2024 - Ceduna

Woke to a crisp sunny morning with no wind (that didn't last long). and stocked up on food ready for our journey across the Nullarbor.

We got our bikes off the ute to do the Encounter Coast Trail only to discover the first puncture of the trip (Dam Bindis).

We saw the sign to the Ceduna School House Museum and dropped in for a quick look at the Maralinga display. We ended up spending most of the afternoon there and chatting to the man who had donated many of the collections on display (Mr Lowe.)

Ashtray collection.

Radioactive storage container.

Nothing to worry about.

White Ant damage

Cells and Telegraph stations.

One for the Ladies.

We still did the Encounter Coast Trail to Thevenard but the sun was setting as we got back to Cenduna.

Ceduna Pier

12/04/2024 - Nullabor Plain

We left Ceduna this morning. It's the friendliest town we have been to in a long time. All the locals were helpful and keen for a chat.

The scenery between Ceduna and the Nullabor Plain wasn't what we expected it was switching between grazing country and mallee scrub. It was also quite green as some rain had fallen out this way in the past couple of weeks.

Grazing country.

Scrub country.

After stopping at Yalata for fuel we saw a lonely Dinngo wandering along the side of the Eyre Highway.

We stopped to set up camp at about 2pm at Gilgerabbie Hut, a turn-off 10 km past the Nullabor Roadhouse. The downside here is that the wind has got up and it's really gusty but the hut is open so we BBQ'd our lunch inside the hut which made it a lot easier.

Camp at Sunset

Camp in the morning.

Cooking out of the wind.

13/04/2024 - 10k Peg Beach View - 10K's from the SA/WA Border

We woke to a beautiful still misty morning. The still didn't last long, by the time we left the wind had picked up again.

GAFA

Today was a Great Australian Bight lookout day. There are three official lookouts as you travel west with differing perspectives at each one.

The Bight

We've camped at the back of a rest area in a spot sheltered from the wind and far enough in that there's very little road noise. Once we set up we walked south down the track to the coast and it was different again from what we had seen during the day.

Sand dunes

Queen of all She surveys.

There's a lot of coast.

14/04/2023 - Bush Camp - Old Quarry Mudara.

After using up all our vegies before the quarantine inspection point (They're very thorough. WA takes its quarantine restrictions seriously) we crossed the border into WA and stopped off at Eucla to top up with fuel and visit the old Telegraph Station. (Which actually was the postmaster's house).

Old Telegraph station.

Art or Vandalism?

The countryside just keeps changing. It's gone from a dry treeless plain to Malle trees, saltbush, and very green. It's a lot greener than what we expected possibly due to the rain 3 or 4 weeks ago. We're really enjoying the scenery.

Some of the old Mallee trees have really interesting forms with twisted branches that remind us of Bonsai shapes.

Along the highway, there are sections with warnings that the road could be used as a runway for the Royal Flying Doctor Service.

Emergency landing strip.

Landing strip.

We've camped at an old Main Roads quarry site that is far enough from the road to be quiet and there's only one other caravan here.

Old Quarry camp.

Garden rust

Serenity

15/04/2024 - Fraser Range

This morning we left early as it was a travelling day. We made a couple short stops at roadhouses on our way to our camp on the Fraser Range which is about 50km from Norseman.

It's been a lovely warm still day and the scenery has been spectacular with undulating roads and surprisingly green vegetation.

It was such a pleasant evening we sat around watching stars and satellites. We also saw a couple of shooting stars.

Long straight road.

Salmon Gum.

16/04/2024 - Norseman

It was only had a short drive to get off the Nullarbor and we arrived in Norseman mid-morning. We set up camp at the free RV campsite, then wandered around the town. After lunch, we walked to the Woodlands Walk which is near the oldest continuously operating goldmine in Australia, and learned a lot about the flora in the area. This part of WA only gets 250mm of rain a year, it's extremely dry and the trees and shrubs store water in their roots which the local indigenous people use to get water. There are many salt lakes, and when the water reaches them it's useless so everyone tries to catch it before it gets there.

Norseman main street.

Local sport...

Woodlands walk.

Norseman is a spotless and tidy town, we noticed there wasn't any graffiti or vandalism and you felt safe walking around.

17/04/2024 - Salmon Gums (The Town)

We're now heading to Esperance. We had to delay our arrival as everything is booked out, so we've stopped overnight in the small town of Salmon Gums.

On the way here we visited the former township of Dundas and Dundas Rocks. The only evidence of a township was the 100-year-old cans and bottles left behind. The town only existed for five years until gold was discovered in Norseman.

Dundas Main St.

Dundas remains.

A little further down the road was Bromus Dam. Built in 1925 to supply the steam trains between Salmon Gums and Norseman.

Bromus Dam.

In the afternoon we did a walk through the woodlands in Salmon Gums admiring a big stand of Salmon Gums. The bright copper colour of the trunks seems impossible.

We couldn't resist stopping at the Pub and had a good chat with the Landlady who filled us in on the local History and gossip. They only get travellers in the Pub these days as she banned a couple of local lads and now they're on the blacklist. :(

18/04/2024 - Esperance

We have arrived in Esperance and it's a big contrast to the last week or so. It's a busy holiday place and we are back in civilisation. (They've got a Bunnings).

Today we explored the main part of town, visited the information centre to get maps and information, and purchased a WA Parks Pass with a seniors discount. Unfortunately, we can't get a campsite in the parks around Esperance at the moment as everything is booked out.